It’s a frightening thought that the game season is upon us again. Of course as a farming county Lincolnshire is blessed with countless shoots throughout the season.

I quite often open my kitchen door at the Queen’s Head in the morning at this time of the year to find a bag of game from a previous day’s shoot, gladly exchanged for a couple of pints! True real game from the wild always has a certain characteristic all of its own.

It has a very specific strong flavour, depending on its feeding and evokes all these flavours, vastly changing depending on the land and area in which they are shot, from corn to wild herbs and berries.

These days young pheasants are nurtured and released only months before the start of the shooting season. These birds lack the flavour of an older bird. The older birds tend to be quite tough; hence the tradition of marinating in strongly flavoured liquids, which have the same tenderising effect as hanging but with additional flavour.

This is a very simple dish to prepare and goes well with the Lincolnshire sausage meat stuffing. The honey roast vegetables and the Madeira gravy add a sweet note to the dish, which complements the gaminess of the pheasant.  Serve with a bowl of creamy apple mash for a truly amazing autumn supper.

Serves 4
4 Large pheasant breasts
(boned, wing bone remaining)
10 Rashers good smoked
Lincolnshire bacon (rindless) 
4 tbsp Madeira
275ml Chicken stock
1 Small carrot
1 Small onion
3 Cloves garlic (finely chopped)
1tbsp Tomato puree
25g Flour
Little butter & oil for frying
Salt & pepper