(cont)

With free-reign in creating menus and an impressive CV which boasts such appointments as Raymond Blanc’s Quat Saison, the Berkley in Knightsbridge, now under the auspices of Gordon Ramsey, and the Wig & Mitre in Lincoln, Paul’s contrend of traditional English food with continental hints is indeed masterful, and with just 10 starters and main courses on the menu and a selection of just eight desserts, Paul is confident that his dishes are so well chosen there are two or three from each section which will appeal to every single diner and that the limited menu can be easily prepared by the brigade of four chefs to ensure that each meal is cooked to perfection every single time.

Vegetables at the restaurant are supplied courtesy of Abbey Parks, whilst sausages and pork arrive via Grasmere Butchers and Boston’s Mountains. Fish is obtained from the Cornish coast, with some trout caught on the East coast. Beef arrives courtesy of Derbyshire’s Richard Taylor whilst Gressingham duck is supplemented by poultry and game from Peterborough Game.

Highlights of the menu include starters of Pan Roasted Quail with buttered Spinach, Confit Onions, Game Crouton with Red Wine and Thyme Jus, and House Potted Brown Shrimps, Granary Toasts, Avruga Caviar and Chantilly Lemon. Main courses include Roast Cornfed Guinea Fowl with Wild Mushroom Risotto and Red Wine Jus, Braised Blade of Beef with Horseradish Mash, Shallots & Red Wine Jus, and Fillet of Wild Seabass Saffron & Lovage Mash with Lemon & Chive Beurre Blanc. Finally, desserts include the nostalgic Brownlow Rice Pudding served with Apricot Compote and Passion Fruit Crème Brulee with Raspberry & Strawberry Sorbet. Our meal comprised Paul’s Warm Terrine of Salmon, Monkfish, Wild Sea Bass & Scallops with Olive Beurre Blanc, followed by Roast Local Partridge, Quince Puree, Buttered Greens and Madeira Pan Juices, and for dessert Steamed Marmalade Pudding with Buttermilk Ice Cream. Our meal was accompanied by home made bread which, like the venue’s sauces and ice creams, was made in house.

“I think it’s important to take the pretentiousness out of food.” Says Paul. “Using food skilfully doesn’t mean being clever, it means being faithful to your ingredients and making the most of your surroundings – we’re a keen community of farmers and have great shoots around here, which serve us well at this time of year.”

With the most comfortable surroundings and quality food the Brownlow Arms is truly a restaurant for those who yearn to go back to the days of warm hospitality and traditional surroundings – it is, in our opinion, a stunning restaurant that really is at its best during the winter months.